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The Journey Begins.....

...In Beijing!

semi-overcast 10 °C
View World Tour on Curleys's travel map.

Well hello there, it's Cardie here!

So you'll all be pleased to know we made it to Beijing in one piece. We arrived on Friday 30th at around 6am. Great flight over apart from massive turbulence during the last half hour or so (not great after we had just eaten our full English!).

We'd organised for our hostel to collect us from Beijing Airport and so had our first experience of the roads in Beijing. Lordy was that a frightening experience. Basically it seems that lane markings are ignored, as are pedestrian crossings, bikes and other cars. You simply use your horn to let other road users know you are coming through and drive where ever you want whenever you want. Pedestrians dice with death each time they try to cross the road.
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At 7am we arrived at our home for the next 7 days, The Red Lantern Hostel. The immediate thought running through our minds was "what have we let ourselves in for?". Our room was basically a cupboard, no windows, freezing cold and smelling of something rather strange. We had to walk through our neighbours room to get to ours which meant waking him up during the night if we needed the loo or anything. It's fair to say that we were quickly aware of what hostel life had in store for us.

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The very first thing we needed was sleep! Once suitably refreshed many hours later we decided that we would head out to the streets of Beijing to explore. Thus we commenced the longest walk EVER. Let me just explain a little about Beijing, it's huge! Something which Gavin and I did not fully appreciate when we first took our little guide book map and set off to explore. What we thought would take around half an hour turned into three hours to find a bar which we were later informed had been knocked down...great! Another quick realisation, guide books are often wrong! It was however a great opportunity for us to get under the skin of Beijing. We had read about all of the construction in the city ahead of the 2008 Olympic Games - the reality is far greater than you can imagine. It feels like the whole city is a huge building site, there is construction everywhere. We have found it particulary sad actually, as all of the building work seems to be at the expense of the traditional way of life. Traditional 'Hutong' (alleyway) homes are being bulldozed to make way for endless skyscrapers. This along with how cold our first couple of days were made Beijing seem a very grey city to us. The void between wealth and poverty is very apparent, it seems there is no real middle ground. Another thing that is apparent, is that they don't get very many black folk around these parts! For our entire week people literally stop in the street and stare. Not at all in a threatening way, just out of pure curiosity. It was little unsettling to start off with but it's amazing how quickly you get used to things and by the end of the week I am completely unfazed by it.

At the end of our first expedition we did in fact find a bar and were quickly introduced to Beijings dual pricing system ie tourists pay more! This rule applies to food, drink, accomodation, public transport in fact any where they can get away with it. We quickly wised up to this and learnt that you need to ascertain prices prior to ordering and need to have the exact money ready as you will almost definitely be given the wrong change back otherwise. It's easy to get very annoyed about this until you realise that in our money it's only the difference of a few pence here and there and it probably means a lot more to them than it does to us...however we did still get annoyed! So we got ripped off for our beers and had to listen to karaoke to add insult to injury (I resisted the temptation to give them the Brummie version of Tainted Love).

We also had our introduction to Chinese toilets....
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So back to our freezing cold room for a very poor night's sleep. We had not prepared for the cold at all and only really had one set of very warm clothes...these are the clothes we have worn virtually all week. It's amazing how quickly you can settle into this crusty traveller lifestyle!

Saturday 31st March. We head off to the Temple of Heaven and another mammoth walk (when will we learn). Hours later we arrive and are stunned at how beautiful the place is. To quote the guide book The Temple of Heaven "is the most perfect example of Ming architecture and has come to symbolise Beijing". Beijing feels so hectic, dusty and loud, your senses are constantly bombarded and here we were right in the centre of it all is this beautifully peaceful place (if you can block out the tourists).

The Temple of Heaven Park
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Any opportunity for Cardie to grab a picture of Chinese children...
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We then walk (again) to Tiananmen Square which is full of plain clothes police and if I'm being honest felt quite eerie. Here we meet "Jack". A really friendly chap who we first assume just wants to have a chat and practice his English....oh how naive we are! It's usually tours or artwork or something but generally there is something that you are being sold! We used the 'we are meeting friends' line and got out of there before we ended up spending all of our savings.

Our new 'friends'....
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In Tiananmen Square
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Jack did however introduce us to Snack Street. A little corner off a main shopping street that houses numerous food stands selling everything from spicy beef skewers to delicious candied fruit, quite similar to toffee apples. We both had a feast for the equivalent of 1.50 each (no pound sign on this keyboard) and this includes the tourist supplement that we paid for each snack!

Eating again...!
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Once we'd had our fill we headed around the corner to find a whole street of similar food stands although what was on offer on a number of them was a little more than we could stomach. There were crickets, some sort of sea slug and animal testicles mmmm looks lovely but we'll give it a miss today thanks.

The Night Market
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Did I mention I'm drinking beer now? Obviously the locals do not often partake in a bottle of Pinot or Chardonnay so unless I want to drink the local rice wine I have had to resort to an alternative tipple. The beer here is quite weak so perfect for me and at 20p for almost a litre it makes perfect financial sense too! I'm not sure Gav would agree with me on the taste side but he is definitely happy with the price.

Sunday 1st April. We head to The Forbidden City, named as such as it was out of bounds to commoners for 500 years. Apparently it's the largest and best preserved group of acient buildings in China and was home to to two dynasties of emperors, the Ming and Quing (I just typed that straight from our guide book). It is stunning but very busy with tourists - the equivalent of trying to see the Mona Lisa at The Louvre. The sun was trying it's very hardest to come out by now so it was lovely to sit in the Imperial Garden and watch the world go by....in fact I actually nodded off for a short time. We used the Metro for the first time to get there, damn all that walking, the metro is so easy and cheap. It's not an extensive network so you often have to walk a short distance or get a cab once you get off but for 20p a journey that's fine by me. To be honest we are aching so much from all the walking we have done so far that it's is just too painful to contemplate any more.
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On Monday 2nd we had an organised excursion from our hostel to the Great Wall at Mutianyu. Around a two hour drive from where we are staying. A great spot as there were hardly any tourists so we really got to enjoy our day. It really is breath taking.....no literally, I couldn't breathe by the time we had walked for an hour or so. It's so steep in places that we were virtually on all fours to get up some of the steps and came back down on our backsides. What did I say about no more walking? The weather was perfect, gorgeous sunny day with enough breeze to stop us overheating on those steep bits. The views from the wall are awe inspiring, we stopped every few minutes to drink it all in (and to get our breath back). After walking as far as we were allowed from one side to the other we deiced the best way to get down again was by cable car.....has Gav mentioned that he is scared of heights? He kept his shades on so that we couldn't see the tears.
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Are we nearly there yet?
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We met a cool girl called Hannah on the excursion, she is staying in the sister hostel around the corner from us and is travelling for a month following teaching English for a year in Xian. Hannah and her boyfriend, Tom, took us to a local restaurant for dinner that evening. It was great being out with someone that speaks Chinese as it meant we could order what we wanted and didn't get ripped off - bonus! We ate like kings, drank beer and the bill came to around four pounds each. We ended the evening with a few beers at our hostel....aaahhh this travelling lark isn't so bad!

We managed to change our room on Monday and now have room with a view (of sorts). Well it's got windows and therefore isn't a fridge as our original room was so that'll do nicely thank you.

Yesterday, Tuesday 3rd April, we headed off to the Summer Palace. This is one of my favourite sights in Beijing. It was bascially the emperors summer residence which is surrounded by lakes and parkland. The main residence overlooks Kunming Lake and we spent a leisurely afternoon strolling around the lake in the glorious sunshine. It was so peaceful and exactly what we needed. We decided that we would brave the buses to get there and back as it's only 10p each...never again. Nuff said.

The Summer Palace
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We've had our first accident! Luckily we have a well stocked first aid kit. So here's how it happened, being a typical girl I was whinging that I was cold last night. We have a twin room so are are in seperate beds and I wanted Gav to get into bed with me to keep me warm (quiet at the back!). As he did so he managed to smash his head of the corner of the bed side table and has given himself a fairly nasty cut. He is now sporting an attractive band aid on his forehead.

The walking wounded
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Tomorrow we check out and start our two night train journey to Vietnam. We are both really excited about moving on now and are planning to just spend today dossing around and repacking ready to go.

Sorry this has been a long one, we'll try to update more often from now on so that our entries are a little more bite sized!!!

I hope everyone is well. Lots of love Cardie xxx

Cardie's obsession with Chinese babies continues.....
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Posted by Curleys 04.04.2007 11:46 AM Archived in Backpacking | China

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Comments

Ahh hey you guys (said in the style of the goonies)

Wow loving your blog. Thankful for technology and being able to keep in touch. It almost feels like we can experience it too the way you describe stuff. It makes me really want to down tools and get on plain, sounds so interesting. Cant wait for the next installment. Cardi & beer??? hehe!

Its easter weekend coming up, think were all getting together to go down the garden house on sat night...... wont make it a messy one, besides it not the same without you. Were about to book tickets for the lovebox weekender (groove armada, deepdish, plump dj's, calvin harris, eric morillo, shapeshifters, trophy twins, paul van dyke, eric prydz, d ramirez & co...) are coming to brum over 26th-27th may bank holiday. Sylvie, sally & T are up for it.....Cant wait...sod pride!

Happy & safe travelling.

J & Susie x

04.04.2007 by currents

Ahh hey you guys (said in the style of the goonies)

Wow loving your blog. Thankful for technology and being able to keep in touch. It almost feels like we can experience it too the way you describe stuff. It makes me really want to down tools and get on plain, sounds so interesting. Cant wait for the next installment. Cardi & beer??? hehe!

Its easter weekend coming up, think were all getting together to go down the garden house on sat night...... wont make it a messy one, besides it not the same without you. Were about to book tickets for the lovebox weekender (groove armada, deepdish, plump dj's, calvin harris, eric morillo, shapeshifters, trophy twins, paul van dyke, eric prydz, d ramirez & co...) are coming to brum over 26th-27th may bank holiday. Sylvie, sally & T are up for it.....Cant wait...sod pride!

Happy & safe travelling.

J & Susie x

04.04.2007 by currents

Hey C & G
Just wanted to say a quick hello, loving your blog & fantastic to keep in touch - kinda!!!
Just walking out the door now so will catch up again next week after a heavy sesh @ Below on Sunday!!!
Love to both, take care & be good (NOT!)
Zoe & Jonathan xx

05.04.2007 by ZoeStatham

Hi Ya !! just a quick hello as really should be working ............ not that that you two will know what that is anymore jetsetting around the world !! love the blog & fab to find out what your up to - roll on December thats all I can say. Am impressed with the beer drinking Cards - what are we gonna be meeting in December when we catch up with you - No GHD's - same clothes for 3 days & now NO WINE !! whats gonna happen to our sophisticated Cardella ?? & Gav hope you kept an eye on our Cardie whilst you were in China (you know shes always wanted a fat Chinese baby) & damn those blasted bed side tables - had you been drinking ??? Im also sure your friend Jack was a proper SWEETHEART !!! as J said meeting up Sat night for a few drinks - Sylvies coming so am pretty sure it will be a messy one !! keep us updated - looking forward to your next installment & I guess we'll see you both December XXX (kisses for Gav as Cardie never kisses me & T) speak soon

05.04.2007 by Sal McKeon

hey you 2 how's it going? guess which one of us is typing & which one is lurking in the background (yeah I know tuff question!) sounds like you are having a proper 'adventure' I was out last night with my friends who've been to Vietnam so am eargerly waiting to read what you find there!!!! ha ha they were telling me some 'interesting' stuff. We can't wait to see some photos so we can follow the progress of your 'fro and the effect of beer on the family wine conisseur. Dad is laughing his head off & says he'll sort out some recipies for deep fried cockroach when you get home, as you probably won't fancy chicken & rice anymore!!!! Anyway peeps have fun, stay safe & we look forward to the next installment...love & kisses xxxxxx

06.04.2007 by dave n Gez

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